Baratang and around

5.      Andaman (if we were to call it mainland in local context and if we leave out Nicobar and many islands, including forbidden ones, for the time being) is divided into North, Middle and South Andaman, separated by straits. With the expansion of tourism related information, facilities and infrastructure, visitors can now virtually travel all over this mainland Andaman. Our next plan was a foray till a point called Bartang Island that lies across the strait, sandwiched between South and Middle Andaman.

         Such a trip is possible in a day (return trip, ie) and since Bartang has no major facilities for stay and basic ones for eats, it is preferred that way. Yes, if one is going ahead to Maya Bunder or so, hotels can be found there but then one can't get back in one day. More than travelling time, it is the system of traffic regulation that kills over-ambitious plans and rightfully so.

       If you, like us, are taking the day trip to Baratang, please be sure to be ready at the reception of your hotel at about 0230h early morning (or in the dead of the night for many who prefer this way). Breakfast would be packed and waiting for you at the reception. The good thing about the area is that hotels have tuned themselves as per the needs of the travellers. One can leave by 0300 or even 0400h also but then there would be issues. Actually, about an hour into the drive, you reach a check post manned by police. The gate will open only around 0600h but before that whole lot of paper work needs to be done. Our driver did all that work while we caught on with some sleep in the car. Now, by the time the gate opens and the convoy (no single vehicle is permitted to move beyond this point) gets moving, there could be as many as three or four hundred vehicles lined up. If one is late, the main implications are two- firstly, you will have to walk quite a distance to relieve yourself inside the only washroom that is available next to the check-post (they need to build a few more) as also for refreshments that are available at the same spot; secondly, if you are far behind, you start to feel bored (no overtaking is allowed during the convoy move over next 45 odd kms. We were in time and were, therefore, second and later first in the convoy since the leading car got aside due to its pulling issues. Ahead of cars would be  few buses and right in front, a cop on a bike. The buses are primarily used by locals and the front seat of those buses is reserved for gunmen - a reminder of earlier times. Gates are opened and closed at fixed timings, three times a day, from both ends.

      Now, why all this fuss! The jungle ahead is the natural habitat of Jarawa Tribe - one of the oldest in our land. They have temporary settlements that shift every season to ensure optimum exploitation of the natural resources NOT beyond a limit. Many decades ago, they would kill anyone found not only in the reserve forest but also outside the limits of their land. While residents of Sentinel Islands don't even allow officials on their island even when latter go to drop some essential commodities there, guys here have come to terms with us. We were told that army had to be deployed to get the road constructed and later, when the road became operational, they would raid wireless posts that had to be set up inside the forest. Slowly and steadily, they reached an understanding with the administration and now there is a school (no one comes there to study but it was nice to see a policeman and a female teacher waiting, as always and on time) inside the reserve. Further, govt has issued ready-made dresses to the tribal (red gowns for females and khakhi for males) but not everyone wears those. There is a vehicle kept on either side of the forest gates to attend to emergencies associated with medical conditions. Basic medicines are supplied, some minimum grains are also issued every month with an idea of helping them but not allowing them to get dependent on the supplies. Coconut and banana trees have been planted in their area by the administration to help them tide over rough times.

       There is a degree of excitement when you are told that no pictures or movies will be allowed (and drivers insist on the same and convince you to refrain from such acts on the plea that tribal throw rocks on those who try and take pics or videos; halting inside the forest, in any case, is not allowed!) and that if you are lucky, you will get to see a few of those guys on or close to the road. Driver showed us their abandoned huts and kept us on alert as we approached an area that is known for sightings. And there they were - a couple, clothed and carrying baskets, walking along the road. The male had bow and arrows on him while the female had a waist basket. Little ahead, we came across a group of young, naked kids but one of them was wearing jeans pants, jeans shirt and even a belt and posing in a way that we were reminded of Mithun Da for a moment. We have corrupted them, it seems! There were no more sightings except on our way back later in the afternoon when we saw three toddlers on the roadside with their mother keeping a watch from the bushes above the road. None of them wore clothes. Deepika pointed out a possibility that these guys make themselves visible as a part of some secret pact with the officials because their sighting remains one of the major attractions for the tourists. Or it could be excitement on their part to see us, the barbarians (!!) as we have the excitement to see them!

         We came across a vehicle stranded on the side of the road in the middle of the forbidden zone. Our driver told us that in case of a breakdown, drivers leave the vehicles unlocked so that tribal folk can open the doors, sit inside, play and sleep inside before vanishing back to their niche. If, however, a vehicle is locked, they will always force the entry ad damage the poor thing. Another interesting thing we saw were a few of them travelling in the front cabin of a truck. Such lifts are prohibited except the dedicated vehicles that remain on stand by but we were made to believe that they force themselves on drivers to give them a lift or may stone the convoy. Who doesn't like a slightly easier travel!

       Missionaries were the first ones to intrude here and also, probably, in Sentinel Islands. Govt is now taking right kind of precautions to make sure that such elements are kept at bay. How long such people will remain somewhat isolated, cannot be guessed but the hard fact remains that the average life span of those guys is below 40!

       Since we were in the lead, we also got to park at the prized spot, next to the jetty and since a ferry was about to leave, we were across the Middle Strait without any wait. The short travel of about 15 minutes took us across the strait to Baratang Island. Views were great from the Ferry that was a rough, rustic and a ferry with seats but no fuss.

Ferry is crudely maintained but is safe and works well...lugs cars and trucks and buses

The Middle Strait

The other side; Bartang Island

       Once at Bartang, one has to walk up to the Forest Office that is about 100m from the jetty. They give you (and not to the tour operators) permissions in under two minutes and no fee is charged. This was one place where we were in a group of two families (island part). We waited for a while for the other family to catch up. Their car had been a bit to our rear. There are gazebos available for people to sit and wait. Soon, all seven of us were ready and our driver guided us to a boat that would take us to Lime Stone Caves in another part of the island.

Middle Strait ....we had to travel backwards towards the jetty from where we had caught big ferry. That is so because that jetty is on far side and hugs the forest of Jarawa people. Once we cross over to Baratang side, we travel back but along home edge, staying clear of the forest that belongs to Jarawa folks. And this travel takes us much further, beyond the jetty alignment. On to our left is a thick forest that is referred to as a kind of walking mangrove since the forest keeps spreading and keeps reclaiming land from the strait.

After about half an hour in the speed boat, we enter the mangroves at a designated place. It is an experience in itself. The boatman keeps blowing a whistle to warn oncoming boats since there are many blind turns and speed boats travel fast.

The Bridge and just ahead of this is the landing point

Landing-cum-check point where documents are checked

The sign says it all.... keeps visitors in check

It is a short trek of about 20 odd minutes and through a dense forest

 Paths have been cut for ease of walking 

Entrance to the Lime Stone Caves......guide was provided by the tour operator

In addition to guidance about rocks, guide also keeps his torch on to help you walk without falling since cave id dark

At places, there are sink holes and such openings allow some light inside

Natural art

A sink hole in the roof

All your to imagine the images that rainwater has created over centuries

Beauty!!

After some 15 odd minutes inside the cave and a round of fresh coconut water at a stall nearby, we head back to the landing point. cross this bridge and go to the boat that had been waiting

Our next stop.....Mud Valcano! One has to boat back to Baratang Jetty, take a cab and reach here

Sign at the gate in the forest shows the volcano to be 300m away (but it about double of that).... a slope through the jungle brings you here...it is live and active

Sun was up, we were out of the shade and there was heat emanating from the volcano...but worth it

The mud lava can be seen flowing

This trip is good for those who like geological processes. Yes, the drive is beautiful and through untouched natural habitats. Tribal issue, if it is made the prime motive, may disappoint you because at the most, one would get to get two or three fleeting glimpses of human beings who may or may not be clad. Our advice would be to look for other things of beauty and take sighting as an icing on the cake during this particular trip!